If you're looking to update your wardrobe and invest in a smart, well-made suit, then it is time to get reading! The different styles of suits available on the market can be baffling at times, but we hope our comprehensive guide will help. From double-breasted styles and different types of fabric - there are so many different things that go into deciding which type of suit is right for you.
Which type of suit should I wear?
Different types of suits are designed for different men. If you are a business type, go with double-breasted style; if you have an athletic body shape, try a slim fit suit or sport coat & tie combo.
It really depends on the event you are wearing the suit too. For example, you probably wouldn't go to a funeral dressed in a pink tuxedo!
One of the problems with handmade suits is that they are more expensive - and if you have to buy several suits for different occasions, you may have to spend more money than you are ideally looking to spend.
What if I only want to buy one suit?
If you just want to buy one suit and be done with it, a strong option is definitely either a double-breasted or single-breasted suit.
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All the different types of suits available for men
The breast of the suit
The classic Double-Breasted suit
There is the double-breasted style, which was popularized by film stars in the 1930s and 40's - think Cary Grant or Fred Astaire. The double-breasted suit has a broad cut that finishes at the waist with two parallel columns of buttons on either side of an elongated opening.
Double-breasted suits should be avoided by those with a heavier set because they can add bulk to your body - which would ideally be avoided for men who are not confident about their weight or body.
When to wear a double-breasted suit
A double-breasted suit is most often worn in winter because it has extra fabric when compared with a single-breasted one. Also, a single-breasted suit looks fine when unbuttoned, and is therefore preferable for the summer months. The problem with a double-breasted suit is they don't look right when unbuttoned, and therefore you're forced into a situation where you can't unbutton them!
Who sells double-breasted suits and where can I buy them?
Most of the companies we work with sell double-breasted suits. Kiton, Cesare Attolini, and more. You can buy them directly from our website, we have some of the best prices available online for all types of suits.
Will double-breasted suits come back in style?
They never really went out of style - they are just as popular now as they were a few years ago. The main reason people think they're not in style is that when worn incorrectly they look dated. However, if you know how to dress as a modern man, you will have no problem choosing between a single breast or double breast suit.
Do double-breasted coats make you look fat or are they slimming?
Generally, double-breasted suits have more fabric. They are much bulkier, and therefore yes - they do make people look fatter than you are. A double-breasted jacket is only really an option if you are comfortable with your body type, for this reason.
Can you wear a double-breasted suit to a wedding?
Of course! As long as you are confident in yourself you can wear a double-breasted suit for a wedding for sure. It is entirely dependent on you - if you are not confident in your body type you should wear a single-breasted suit, however, if you are confident in your body type and in your style you can definitely go for a double-breasted suit, which when done correctly can look unbelievably fashionable... But when done incorrectly can just simply look wrong. Double-breasted suits are considered to be more formal - therefore they can often be suited well for a wedding.
The more modern Single-Breasted suit: What is the difference?
The differences between a single-breasted suit and a double-breasted suit are:
- Single-breasted suits can only be buttoned up on one side, double-breasted can be buttoned up on both sides
- Single-breasted suits have less fabric, and are therefore recommended for warmer settings (although the fabric is more important in terms of warmth)
Whether you get a single-breasted suit or a double-breasted suit is totally up to you. But the best advice we can give you is that you should get a single-breasted suit if you're expecting heat, and a double-breasted suit if you're going to a colder climate.
Overall, it's probably a smart decision to get a single-breasted suit. They are more robust than their double-breasted counterparts and can be used in more situations.
The structure of the suit blazer
What do unconstructed and deconstructed suits mean?
The first part of a suit construction that needs to be talked about is whether or not the suit is constructed or deconstructed.
A deconstructed suit is the most common in Italy - and it essentially means that all of the "unnecessary" parts of a suit are removed.
The philosophy generally in Italy is "less is more" - and so an unconstructed suit is a trimmed-down version, which has been simplified completely. Normally a suit from another country will have padding and internal lining (we will talk about this later)
A deconstructed suit, on the other hand, is the suit jacket itself, without any of the internal parts that most suits have.
These suits are preferred by Italians for a number of reasons, but it's more frequently than not because of their love of minimalism and the sweltering Mediterranean sun.
An unstructured jacket that fits well is an incredible thing. It's so much lighter and is absolutely perfect for a summer wedding.
What is a "constructed" blazer or suit
This word is not used very frequently, because any kind of inner or outer addition to the suit makes it constructed. More accurately, most people would say a padded suit, or a lined suit, which would automatically make it not deconstructed.
These suits are much more common in the British tailoring tradition, whereas, as we just mentioned, it's far more common to see a suit which is deconstructed in Italy. This is another huge difference between the two oldest and greatest Sartorial traditions in the world.
It's a point of personal preference, although after living in Italy for about 3 years, I've learnt that questioning Italians on things such as cuisine or culture is completely pointless, as they normally know what's right.
To vent or not to vent: that is the question - Single vent vs double vent
The single vent suit jacket
A single vent blazer is different to the more traditional double vent. The double vent suit jacket has two diagonal vents on the front of the jacket, whereas a single vent suit only has one. The purpose of the vents on a suit is to allow for better airflow, which will help you stay cool, and prevent sweat stains.
What are the different types of single vents?
There are different types of single vents - typically these are different because they're different sizes. The most popular type would be a small or medium-sized lapel with one large diagonal vent that goes vertically across the chest. This lapel size is typically most beneficial for guys who want to show off their tie knot - although it can also make your abdomen appear larger.
No venting suits - Are they in fashion?
The most common type of suit without venting is the smoking suit, or Tuxedo as they're frequently known. Here is a fantastic example by Kiton, as you can see there are no cuts in the back of the suit. This gives it a feeling of formality - and is the reason they were often the first choice of James Bond.
The large single vent suit jacket
Similarly, the most popular type of double-vent is a medium or small size with two diagonal vents that go vertically down your chest. The advantage of this one is that it allows you to have different types of ties on underneath - potentially even different colours without showing them both at once!
A different type of single-vent is the ticket pocket. This is a small horizontal pocket which sits just beneath your chest, and it's different because it doesn't have any vents at all - meaning you can see what's going on underneath much easier! The only downside to this one would be that if you're wearing suspenders or braces, they may be visible.
Flat-front vs. pleated suits - What's the difference?
Pleated trousers are different than flat-front because pleats allow for greater movement. The advantage of pleats is that they can be made in different styles and sizes to enhance different body types. Flat-front pants, on the other hand, are unpressed and unshaped.
Pants with different style pleats may also be different in their degree of stiffness. Further differentiating them from each other is the level of softness or stiffness at which they will hang. A person can find different degrees of stiffness by experimenting with different fabrics and designs.
A disadvantage to using different materials is that it could change the shape of the pants - most likely making them either more pleated or less pleated.
Again - this is a simple question of personal choice - Although pleating is currently more in style than flat-front in 2021, after pleating almost died out a few years ago.
What is a suit lining and should I buy a lined suit?
A suit lining will different from a suit jacket that doesn't have a lining. A suit jacket without a lining is different to a suit jacket with a lining. A suit jacket with a lining is different to a suit jacket without a lining because the purpose of the lining is to add comfort and warmth to the wearer.
The difference between different types of linings in suits jackets is different because they are different materials. Different types of linings in suits jackets can be different in their amount. Some types of suits will have different amounts in their linings in order to provide additional comfort and protection against wind and rain in colder seasons.
An advantage of using different materials in the linings of suits is that it could change the shape of the suits. Most likely making them different in softness or stiffer.
A disadvantage of using different materials is that it could change the shape of the jacket - most likely making them either more lined or less lined.
Want to find out more information about what Sartorial means? Find out here!
Suiting can be a daunting task, but we hope this guide has helped clarify the different styles and construction choices. From double-breasted to no lining, it pays to know your options when you're looking for the perfect suit! We've covered everything from different types of vents to different styles of pants - so don't hesitate to reach out if you have any questions or want assistance in creating an individualized marketing plan that speaks directly to your customers' needs. Which type of suit did you find most helpful?