HOW TO: DROP
Many of you often ask us about the meaning of "drop". So, here is our article to guide you step by step at the discovering of the perfect suit.
A suit can be made in many ways and can be adapted in a simple and precise way to the different physical characteristics of our body: the important thing, to ensure a suit that works naturally on our body structure, is to know its own drop.
So let's try to understand together what the drop means in the field of tailoring and what it is for. The technical definition is very simple: the drop is the difference between the semi-measurement of the chest and the one of the waist and it’s important to make the choice of a suit more balanced, customizing the cut and exponentially improving the overall fit of the dress, both for the jacket and for the pants.
Each size can refer to the following conformations or drops that can change depending on the style line:
- DROP 10 - extra-slim conformation
- DROP 7-8 - slim conformation
- DROP 6 – normal conformation
- DROP 4 - half-strong conformation
- DROP 2 - strong conformation
- DROP 0 - extra-strong conformation
The drop 10 is suitable for men with an extra slim shape, while the drop 7-8 is designed for thin people. The drop 6 is undoubtedly the classic measure for a suit and dresses men with normal conformation. From drop 4, designed for half-strong sizes, up to drop 2, plus sizes, and drop 0, extra strong sizes, we enter the field of men with a bit of a belly, clothes that are therefore suitable for strong and heavy body types.
The jacket must be wide enough on the chest to be comfortably buttoned. It must be fastened with the central button for the three buttons, and with the upper one for the two buttons. Never under any circumstances, the button below must be closed.
As for the length, one of the criteria adopted is that it must be long enough to completely cover the curves of the buttocks, or that the lower limit of the jacket reaches half of the thumb when the arm is extended along the side. It is also necessary to evaluate the length of the sleeves very carefully; the classic rule is that the cuff of the shirt should be 1 cm thick.
To better understand how to calculate the size and the drop, let's take an example with a subject that has the following measures:
- chest circumference cm 100;
- waist circumference cm 88;
- height cm 176.
The drop (the result of the difference between the semi-circumference of the thorax and the semi-circumference of the waist) is equal to 88:2 = 44 (waist semi-circumference) and so 50-44 = 6.
The DROP 6 is the perfect regular one and it fits the medium build. The DROP 7 and the DROP 8 adapt well to athletic body types with broad shoulders and a narrow waist. The DROP 4, the DROP 2 and the DROP 0 are conformations suitable for strong and bulging body types where the ratio between half-circumference of the chest and half-circumference of the waist is less than 1.
Higher you go with the drop, slimmer the cut of the pants will be. Conversely, a lower drop (for example, 4) is better suited to those with larger waistlines.
Individuals differ, therefore, not only in their size but also in the characteristics of their physical configuration which we call conformation.
The word conformation can, therefore, be understood as the different aesthetic manifestations that our physicist can have and which conditions different wearability needs, which the modeler takes into account in conceiving and elaborating the various style lines of the dress.
A dress, therefore, can be made in the same size, larger or smaller depending on the type of individual to be dressed, due to the style and comfort that you want to achieve.
In summary, we can say that the fit is given by the size combined with the style line.
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