The Fashion History of Men's Suits: 2 Great Tailoring Traditions - British vs. Italian suits
The suit - A classical menswear garment. It is one of the few timeless items you will ever own, as it has been around for centuries. The suit evolved from military uniforms in eighteenth-century Europe, to what we know today - A must-have formal garment. Suits compliments your v-shape, by using the lapel to create an upwards illusion, making you look slimmer and at the same time, broader around your chest. It is an essential piece of classic menswear,
Traditionally, men’s suits are said to belong to one of the two great tailoring traditions: British or Italian. But what are the hallmarks of each tradition? And where do American styles factor into it all? Shop all classic menswear
A brief history of the Italian suit
The roots of today's Neapolitan tailoring stretch back to the Brotherhood for Jacket Makers and Tailors (Confraternita dell'Arte dei Giubbonai e dei Cositori ), founded in Naples around 700 years ago. The members were among the first to create ready-to-wear men's garments; they manufactured clothes that made their way across Europe all the way up into Russia over a period spanning centuries.
The Neapolitan suit is a unique standout in men’s fashion, and it starts at the shoulders. Deviating from the classical British style of padding the suits in order to make them look more natural, Italian tailors keep it simple. By avoiding padded sleeves Italian tailors use the element of spalla camicia (a “shirt shoulder” detail). The reason you can find this style on Italian-made garments is that these details speak for themselves as being uniquely casual when compared to English formality.
Vincenzo Attolini is credited with a game-changing invention while employed at Gennaro ‘Bebè’ Rubinacci's British-inspired London House (read more here). The suits made by Neapolitan tailors up until this point resembled those being created on Savile Row or in Rome. An apprentice of Morziello, Vincenzo was the first to use what we now call trademark Neapolitan tailoring methods for his creations and not only did he change how everyone else viewed suit design but also revolutionized all future fashion trends as well.
He constructed an unstructured, unlined, unpadded suit that fit the Neapolitan population better than the English suit. With the hot summer days the Enligh suit became too heavy and warm for the Neapolitans. Ultimately Attolini created what would become the basis for Neapolitan tailoring, and where brands like Kiton and Cesare Attolini would get their inspiration from.
As Vincenzo Attolini’s grandson later stated, his grandfather “created a suit like a second skin” - which at the time (when compared to the dominant English style) was incredibly forward-thinking. Although not a huge initial success, Neapolitan tailoring has come to dominate large sections of the market.
A brief history of The English suit
The English suit is the most traditional and common style of the business suit. Western tailoring began in 19th-century London, but it was Beau Brummell who laid the groundwork for today’s modern suit during 1820 by removing excess ornamentation from menswear and replacing frills with sober simplicity. By eliminating brocaded silks, fussy lace cuffs, embroidered slippers ̓high heels o bright colors,' he replaced them with a dark blue coat that matched his white shirt while wearing a buff vest to tone down any hint of frivolity.
Beau Brummell by Richard Dighton, 1805.
The British suit is identifiable by its stiff military influences. It often features a padded shoulder, heavy canvassing, and waist suppression in order to accentuate the body of those who wear it. The best fit for this kind of ensemble is slender men because these suits give them an authoritative look that other styles cannot achieve as well-especially slim ones like James Bond!
The British suit is known for its appropriateness in the workplace and subservience to authority, yet it never looks "over-the-top". It's always conservative and understated.
The modern-day suit is the culmination of centuries worth of experimentation and innovation. From flap pockets to double rear vents, tailoring continues today as an art form that transcends trends or fashion cycles; it has been established for its practicality in all manner of occupations from riding a horse on long journeys through rural countrysides to travelling by train with quick access to tickets at hand.
Comparing a British and Italian suit - Which is actually better?
The answer to this question is an absolute classic: It depends.
If you are located in areas like the Northern Europe or the United Kingdom etc., where temperatures get really cold, you would want to have a suit that is not too thin and vice versa.
Let’s say you want to go to a wedding in hot temperatures, can you imagine yourself wearing a thick English-style suit? Or would you rather be wearing something so light and tight that it could be called a second skin?
On the other hand, if you’re wanting to go to a formal occasion in cold weather, you will most likely also have to buy yourself an overcoat if you’re wearing an Italian-style suit. They are incredibly thin, and would not withstand harsh cold and wet weather conditions particularly well.
Tom Ford suits are mostly inspired by English tailoring
It also depends on whether you’re comfortable with your physique or not.
If you are a little bit self-conscious or heavier than usual, then a British suit would be a good match for you. The heavy canvassing and the waist suppression can help you gain a bit of self-confidence and security, by creating a form of covering, minimizing what others can see.
If, on the other hand, you’re confident in your own skin - you really can’t beat an Italian suit. It hugs your body perfectly (once you’ve got a clear understanding of the rather complicated drop system) and will show your physique much more closely than a British suit.
British-style suits are often too formal for some situations, whereas an Italian suit, without a necktie, can be worn in pretty much any situation.
You can also match styles, for example, you can wear a pair of Italian dress shoes with a British suit. An Italian suit is perfect for men with a long torso, which is why it's a very popular style in Asia.
An Italian suit also works well for shorter people. The suit gives an appearance of height (and pinstripes are very popular, which also makes people seem taller) - So if you're wondering which type of suit to buy, if you're shorter or have a longer torso, then an Italian cut suit is perfect.
If you are interested in reading more about Kiton or Cesare Attolini, you are welcome to click here.
